By Harry,
Me & Paul , met Danny, Richard & Rob in Etive. Because of a mid/day start (9.30) we ended up behind two parties; we met the two girls at the first short wall which was wet and they decided to rope-up. I went up first followed by paul who ended back in a pool of water, so the rope came out and the girls leap frogged us. A chossy loose traverse then took us to the first real pitch, Richard led it and took up Dan & Rob, while I followed with Paul. Several small chockstone pitches later came a loose slab with a stream running down it. Danny started up the left dry side and I tried the wet slab - its only water, 3 meters later I was back down in a pool of water. Danny’s team: 2, Harry’s team 0.. Next was the 100ft wall - a nice long jug fest. Paul led that and Rob led for Danny/Rich.
Finally after more small, wet, mossy chockstone pitches came the converging wall pitch where you climb onto a short ledge, then bridge up on a smooth wall and try to pull over onto the ledge - a committing pitch. Then your almost finished physically/mentally and what’s next? The Devils Cauldron . Luckily for us the first team,3 guys, were still on it. One guy was try to prussik his way up. We went for the quick exit: I’m a Lomonder get me out of here.. and went up the south wall a VS 4b variation. I led with Paul, followed by Danny taking his team Rob and Richard up a good lead. We waited until Danny reached the belay and showed the way up the last part, and buggered off! What are friends for?..
A long day 15 pitches lots of waiting but a classic climb. Anyone inspired by this trip report please don’t call me.
