Alpine Summer Week with LMC
Date: July 12th to 28th, 2024
Participants: Baptiste, Mia, Hannah, James, Aurelie, John, Alan, Katie, and Andrew
After a successful alpine trip to Saas Fee, Switzerland, in 2023, where three (soon to be four) LMC members summited some 4000m peaks, this year's adventure was even more exciting. Thanks to Baptiste's enthusiastic lobbying, we selected Ailefroide in France for the 2024 LMC alpine trip. LMC members (and associated) spent one to two weeks at the Ailefroide campsite, enjoying beautiful weather and thrilling climbs.
First slab pitches on granite in the valley
Despite some delays and a missed flight, everyone arrived at the campsite on Sunday, ready for some via ferrata and easy sport multipitch climbs. On Monday, we decided to head higher to escape the valley heat and tackle bigger mountains. With the huts fully booked, we chose to bivy next to the Glacier Blanc hut and Ecrin hut. The day was spent on glacier rescue training at the campsite (using tent pegs as anchors and a pot as the climber), packing our heavy bags, and hiking to the first hut at 2500m. Our provisions for the four-day adventure included dehydrated meals, bread, cheese, and saucisson. Baptiste recons that 400 g of cheese (Abondance) and 400 g of saucisson were just enough for this adventure. He also notes that Abondance survived surprisingly well to the backpack and heat.
To the refuge du Glacier blanc. Heavy backpack with climbing and bivy gears
Tuesday began with Hannah and James having an early start to climb the lovely named Montagne des Agneaux (AD- 3664m). John and Aurelie tackled Pointe Cezanne (PD+, 3364m), while Mia and Baptiste, seeking a shorter approach, traversed the Arete des Cineastes (AD+ or D+ depending on the guidebook, 3203m). We all had a fantastic day, and a beautiful bivy site was found behind the hut.
Traffic jam on the crux of the traverse des cineastes
Mia on top of the third pinnacle of the Cineaste, before an airy downclimb.
Aurelie and John on top of the Pointe Cezanne
James summiting the Montagne des Agneaux
Breakfast with a view
Wednesday was a “rest” day, moving to the higher Refuge des Ecrins (+ 600m, 3100m)). We planned to wake up at 2 am to climb the Barre des Ecrins. However, due to recent serac falls, warm night conditions, and poor acclimatisation, we changed our plan for a safer choice. We left our bivy site at 3:30 am to climb Roche Faurio (F+/PD+, 3730m), an easy glacier walk followed by a technically easy but exposed ridge climb. We were the first to summit that day, avoiding the traffic jam and giving us the time to look at the view. From there, we could see most of the southern Alps from the Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn, as well as the Monviso. The way down to the valley (-2100 m) was marked by a scorching sun on the glacier, leaving us properly cooked. Bags were weighted at the campsite at around 17 kg each.
View from our bivy site at 3am
Baptiste climbing the final ridge on Roche Faurio
Aurelie and John on the exposed ridge of Roche Faurio
Baptiste, Aurelie, Hannah, James and John summiting Roche Faurio
The rest of the week was spent resting, climbing multipitch routes, and, for Mia and Baptiste, nursing injuries (one sprained ankle and one pulled hip flexor). John and Aurelie left on Saturday, while Andrew from the Brixton Climbing Club in London joined us. The only day with bad weather was spent on a road trip to Italy for lunch. Other resting activities included playing tetris with sleeping mats for nap-time under the tarp, testing how far yoghurt, cheese and butter will last inside a hot tent and working our way through the treats in the local grocery store'
James, Hannah, and Andrew returned to the Refuge du Glacier Blanc, planning to climb the south ridge of the Pic du Glacier Blanc (AD). On Monday, Alan and Katie joined us after their road trip to the Czech Republic.
Random shenanigan at the campsite
The rest of the week was filled with classic climbs like Snoopy Direct and the Fissure d’Ailefroide. Overall, the trip was a huge success, filled with fun, heavy backpacks, cheese, wine, and saucisson. Several participants would like to thank the London traveling people for bringing camping luxuries, such as a table, chairs, a tarp, and several bottles of wine.
We're already looking forward to doing it all again next year!