By Baptiste Poursat
Participants: Baptiste, Mia, Cat, Alan, Vicky, Rory, Stefan, John, Aurelie, Scott, Cammy, Heather, Ethan, Eilidh, Craig, Evi
Two weeks, sixteen climbers, one ghoul, and more missed lifts than we’ll admit, that was LMC’s Alpine Week 2025.
This year, once again, LMC members migrated to higher altitudes and sunnier latitudes for two weeks of fine weather, alpine climbing, cheap wine, and freshly baked bread.
With Baptiste taking over as meet organiser, it was unanimously (and perhaps inevitably) decided to head back to his homeland. The Chamonix valley proved an ideal choice for a group of experienced climbers but relative alpine newcomers.
After long drives from Glasgow to Chamonix, some done in one push, others opting for flights, most participants arrived over the weekend. Early arrivals enjoyed the IFSC competition in town and began exploring the local crags.
Monday
Most headed up to Brévent (2525 m) or L’Index (2385 m) for bolted climbs. Aurélie and Baptiste tackled the Clocher–Clocheton traverse, complete with its famous tyrolienne, racing (and running) to catch the last lift down. Other teams climbed in the Index area.
Alan, Rory, and Stefan missed the lift entirely and had the pleasure of a long walk back to the valley.
Tuesday
John and Cammy were first on the lift to the Aiguille du Midi (3842 m) to link the Arête à Laurence (PD+) and the Arête des Cosmiques (AD, 3613 m), a double traverse that many other parties would repeat during the trip. Ambitious for our two Scots who had barely been above sea level for 48 hours, but they finished in good time for the afternoon lift.
Others took the little Montenvers train to the Mer de Glace (about 1900 m) to walk on the glacier and practice crampon skills on pure glacier ice, something we do not have in Scotland.
Wednesday: to the Albert 1er Hut
A big team, Cat, Sarah, Scott, Rory, Stefan, Alan, Cammy, Aurélie, and Baptiste, made the hike to the Albert 1er Hut (2702 m). Plans were:
- Petite Fourche (3512 m) or Aiguille du Tour (3540 m) for Cat, Sarah, Scott, and Rory as their first independent alpine glacier climbs.
- The South Ridge of the Aiguille Purtscheller (D, 5a, 3475 m) for the others.
Meanwhile, Mia and Vicky attempted the Arête des Papillons (D+, 5c, 2800 m), a Chamonix classic on the Plan de l’Aiguille. While John, Ethan, and Heather enjoyed Frison-Roche (6a) on the Brévent.
Thursday : A Long Day Out
Everyone was up early at the hut. Unfortunately, lack of coffee (and map reading), saw the Purtscheller teams descend too early to the Glacier du Tour. This made the approach longer than expected.
The climb itself was glorious: perfect granite and amazing views across the Plateau du Trient. But a poor abseil line choice on loose terrain caused delays, meaning both Purtscheller teams missed the last lift. The resulting 2000 m descent to the valley tested legs, Cammy’s knees and morale.
Baptiste and Aurélie stumbled into camp at 9 pm after a 16-hour day; Cammy, Alan, and Stefan arrived at 11 pm to cold pizza after a 19-hour epic.
The other team on Petite Fourche had a smoother day, summiting in the morning and making the lift without drama.
Friday to Sunday : Rest & Rock
A rest day with bouldering, burgers, and clubbing in Chamonix.
Mia, Rory, Vicky, Scott, and Cat did the Arête à Laurence, while Aurélie, Baptiste, Stefan, Alan, and Evi combined Laurence with Cosmiques on Sunday.
Eilidh also climbed the Cosmiques after a guided ascent of Gran Paradiso (4061 m).
Cat and Cammy crossed into Italy for the Traverse des Aiguilles d’Entrèves (AD, 3600 m). A huge evening storm nearly defeated the tarp at “Camp 2” in the campsite.
Monday : Winter in July
Teams went to Italy, overnighting at the Rifugio Torino (3375 m).
Mia, Vicky, Evi, John, Scott, and Alan traversed the Aiguilles d’Entrèves, battling white-out conditions, bottlenecks, and climbing the entire ridge in crampons, a day that felt like Scottish winter.
Baptiste and Aurélie aimed for the Dent du Géant (4013 m). Conditions were brutal: white-out, wind, verglassed rock, and fixed ropes covered in ice. After a frigid approach, which was to solo a grade II Scottish climb, they were the second team to reach the Salle à Manger (3900 m), most other teams retreating before or being slowdown by the conditions. Everything was frozen, but they still pushed to try the first pitch, before to retreat 10m later. The verdict: next time, bring winter mitts and consider that the approach will be a challenge on itself.
The Final Days
Most people left by Wednesday.
Highlights included a rapid two-hour Frison-Roche ascent by Mia and Baptiste (thanks to having the crag to themselves) and some well-earned spa time.
Honourable Mentions
- The tarp at Camp 2, battling valiantly against wind and rain.
- The group buying pizza and beer for the Purtscheller teams.
- The Ghoul (probably Rory), campsite menace leaving dried pasta in porches, stealing shower gel, and misplacing gears.
- The Hex of Shame, rung whenever someone missed the last lift.
- The local bakery, fuelling French nostalgia for Baptiste and Aurélie and providing fresh bread
- Cat and Cammy boarding the wrong train and ending up in Switzerland.
- A goat on L’Index, climbing faster than Baptiste.
Conclusion
An unforgettable trip with the LMC, and plenty of new projects in the works. Next year’s destination is still to be decided, but the Alps are calling again… and Baptiste is already campaigning for another French summer.