Written by John Cunningham.
An optimistic snow emoji sat on the CIC Winter meets chat title which unfortunately did not meet emoji expectations. After a second turbo thaw without consolidation the Winter season seemed bleak but did not falter an 8 Lomonder strong meet to the CIC. A typical “rack’n’rope” became “rack’n’roast” with a team promise that despite little to no snow we would have a beef roast joint for morale. Whether this multiple kilogram slab of succulent meat would make a suitable snow bollard or large constriction placement is still unclear, perhaps a question for 25/26 Winter season.
The team met at TNF car park to divvy up the gear. A sacrifice of metal for food would come as an ideal compromise. Brown spring heather, snow dusted Munro tops and blue breaks in the sky made for excellent scenery on approach to the CIC. Buttresses remain black, however classic gullies appeared complete.
Given the forecasted above-two degrees Ben summit temps and large avalanche debris on gully runouts, decisions are made to stick with the classic ridges in “summer” condition.
Lots of catchup and wine (d’plastique) to be shared, an excited and cosy space is lived with the team. No other club or team is present at the CIC (LMC flag to be draped over the dining room burner required for future).
The 8 are in 3 teams for Monday; Christabel, Stefan, Evi and John on Castle ridge, Aurelie, Scott, Vicki and Chris on Ledge route.
Castle being totally saturated and dotted with lichen made for balanced and caring moving with wet hands for the chimney sections. Clouds opened over the Castle area buttresses and out towards Lochaber. Route finding went awry when Christabel and Stefan radio’d that they were at the second chimney, which was impossible given that the team in front, John and Evi, were only just at the foot of the first chimney. Descent via Ledge route.
Ledge route held an even wetter typical wet slab start but sociable outing with nav practice within Coire na Ciste on return. Summit snow was reported as total slush. Descent via Ledge route.
With the fantastic spring weather moving in and higher wind speeds forecasted for higher elevations, the team make a move down to Glen Nevis on Tuesday morning where a few days of camping (Glen Nevis camp site) and warm, midge-free trad climbing are enjoyed.
Lots of psyche and high spirits within the whole team given the blue skies; pushing comfort grades, ticking some crag classics and a first trad lead had in the Glen. Half the team return back to sunny Glasgow, with the remaining team staying at the Glenbrittle campsite (shower rating 8/10). A great two nights in the CIC with lovely company and a superb remainder in Glen Nevis, here is hoping next year yields the Winter conditions. Many Happy Birthday wishes to Vicky on her 31st on the final day of the trip!
