Written by John Cunningham
Participants: John, Vicky, Aurelie, Alan, Stefan, Amber, Cammy (Cinders), Flo, Tom, Christabel, Miles, Kate, Evi, Heather, Scott, Baptiste, Chris M
Not soon after the 2025 Chamonix trip, an eager group of Lomonder holiday-goers were keen for a follow-up Winter holiday. With a fairly washout 24/25 Winter season, a trip to a colder climate for more reliable Winter climbing conditions was well on the cards. I was anticipating a small group, at least 3, of keen Winter climbers to put their hand up for a Norway trip, which would be booked immediately to ensure we had a core group for others to join on to once they had made their mind up. I did not anticipate 12 of us immediately booking annual leave and setting aside money for flights and accommodation, of which was booked in August. This 12 would then become 17, a real testament to the eagerness and punterness of club members to suffer minus double digits in each other’s company.
The venue chosen was Rjukan (pronounced roo-can), an ice climbing paradise for beginners and experienced ice climbers alike. Tree laden crag edges are plentiful creating easy opportunity for top rope, which is ideal for mastering climbing technique on a range of grades.
The dark valley of Rjukan as morning approaches
There is some rich history with this valley; the WW2 Operation Gunnerside whereby Norwegian commando’s, supported by Royal Engineers, successfully infiltrated the Vemork hydroelectric plant with the goal of hindering German heavy water production for the atomic age. Fortunately for us, the Commando-esque ice climbing and skiing would be less mission critical to the world, and our only real enemies are muscle fatigue and wait times with Thrifty car rental corporation.
The date was chosen from vote, and also ensuring our visit did not clash with the ice climbing festival week. February seemed quite reliable for conditions from reading information from the guidebook and UKC. Returning at the start of February while the (hopeful) January Atlantic storms build our Scottish Winter, meant we would be in good stead for stronger Winter objectives come late February and March at home.
For accommodation, Alan had found a large rental within the town accommodating 12 people, between the cost was ~£200. Considering prices for smaller venues, it was easier to book the one accommodation for the group. Nothing short of a Norwegian cartel hacienda; 3 floors, large open plan kitchen and living area, snow-filled balconies and a walk-in fridge (walk-out freezer too, courtesy of Mother Nature), it was a prime living space for the weeks’ activities.
Cosy living space with a large view out to Rjukan
The main feature was the sauna, which did double as a drying room, albeit may be a touch whiffy if used with the days’ climbing layers (not recommended).
Kate, Cammy and Alan outside the new Norwegian Club hut for LMC
There is always a prized excitement when driving up the A82 and being presented with small icicle formations on rocky embankments - signs of the hopeful conditions to come on the day. I was not quite prepared for the excitement of water-ice formations driving 20 minutes out of Oslo airport. This begs the question, why drive 3 hours to Rjukan? The following days would answer this. Without making light of the objective dangers of ice climbing, this was a total playground.
Photo taken of an ice formation just outside Oslo airport. This one structure was enough to cause some violent sounds of pleasure from our vehicle occupants.
Sunday the group piled into Krokan. Initially we planned on Lower Gorge, however the river wasn’t frozen over and we were unable reach the other side of the crags where the more amenable grades lay. Wet boots would have been slight dampener on the day. The group broke into smaller contingents to check availability at different sections around the crag. There were a couple of guiding groups which had set up top ropes since 0700, despite this, there were lines available to climb and the crag did not seem overly busy. Scott and myself went to the crag entrance to set up a top rope, we found the only available route was a steep ice pillar which made for an interesting warm-up. To gain access there is a bridge further round from the access walk which gains the rear of the crags. Solid trees are plentiful!
Cammy top roping a rather hollow-sounding WI-4 pillar
Aurelie took a first lead of the group up the route Kjøkkentrappa which also allowed for additional TR opportunity. We all stayed in Krokan until sundown. Nearing the end of day, a Spanish climber took an unfortunate fall and injured his ankle. While his three friends supported him to the car park, Baptiste and Amber went to retrieve his gear (unfortunately no crag swag). The Spaniards later joined us in the accommodation for beer and gifted us snacks.
Aurelie on the first lead in Krokan
Time for Krokan TR!
Victory tea
Sunsetting on Krokan valley
Luggage Series
Monday saw us split into the Lomond ski team and others continuing to climb. Alan, Cammy, Vicky, Miles, Heather, Chris and myself went to the Gausta ski resort. There is a bus that runs throughout the town to the resort for free, which I suppose this is a swindle with the enticing apres food and relentless pints of Aass (don’t worry - the Pilsner).
Lomond ice team took on Ozzimosis. Following the top rope day moving on the brittle minus-ridiculous-temperature ice, leaders within the group were keen to get the handles cranked on the newly sharpened screws. Ozzimosis sits on the road up to the local Ben, Gaustatoppen. There are plenty of easy to moderate ice-falls with quick access however a car is recommended.
Scott on his first WI lead of the trip
Amber and a delighted Baptiste after Amber’s first ice lead
On the Tuesday I climbed Fabrikfossen with Christabel and Scott. Cammy and Alan took a leisurely start to the day and caught us up due my nifty navigation taking us on a wrong turn the approach. The approach path forks left and right, ensure to go left. The right will likely be trail from the abseil descent.
Alan sorting multi-team abseil ropes like a true gentleman
Christabel experiencing some nippy hot-aches and waving her numb hands in the air. A video would soon circulate with some attached gospel singing.
Aurelie and Stefan climbed Foxy Lady, a route that leads multiple ice pitches throughout the winding road up to Gausta with an interesting icy tunnel to kick things off.
Stef on Foxy Lady
Baptiste throwing up gang signs in the drying room
Unfortunately, due to the group size and sub-groups/partners with their own activities, I began to lose track of said activities and respective photos and subsequently this accurate timeline ends after Tuesday – a fairly poor attempt on my part. I will salvage whatever photos and timelines together however this may be wildly inaccurate.
Alpine hair styling with Amber and Christabel
Wednesday brought rest day in the form of bombing down red and black runs at the Gausta ski resort. Please note, this cannot be considered a rest day which was soon found out the following days. The LMC ski team quickly grew in numbers as did the Gausta Apres and live music bar.
Team LMC Apres
Flo and Tom made a trip back to Ozzimossis, their rest day came in the form of a “lazy morning” (likely midday wakeup?) to the right-hand end of the crag.
Stills from the tripod footage of Flo’s ascent in Osimossis.
Thursday saw an early group of Lomonders reach the Lower Gorge, a tantalising 4-minute drive from the accommodation. The plan being a late morning climb (still considered early) with an afternoon visit to the town workers museum.
Vicky on TR in Lower Gorge
Chris fighting Scottish Gully to gain some purchase underneath the thick blankets of useless powder - nothing quite like home.
A colourful bunch admiring their pointy tools
Big machine go “wrrrrrrr”
Following a welcomed rest day, Stefan and Aurelie climbed a 7 pitch WI-3 route called Bolgen. Strong efforts from the pair, especially the long abseil descent and 11th hour return to the accommodation.
Aurelie and Stefan anchored to start of their multipitch tree abseil
Heather on her first WI lead in Lower Gorge
Friday saw a full team descent into Alset crag. I would consider this crag to be the highlight of my week in Rjukan despite the 40 minute (that’s right - Forty!-May as well stayed in bloody Scotland!). There was a stunning morning light that glimmered through the trees and illuminated the icy river bed which really took away from riverbedard dark and cold ambience we had become used to.
Alan taking a lead of a steeper section on Upstream Ice
Evi on TR for section of Upstream Ice
Lomond Team at Alset
Aurelie soaking up the afternoon sun on Hakalansfossen. If there’s a photo from the trip, this is it!
Chris skating on the frozen banks of Tinnsja after an ice session at Alset. “P*sh compared to a frozen Starry”, I assume was being muttered.
Collage of photos from the big camera, courtesy of Chris
Flo and Tom would leave after Alset; a truly fantastic group outing to end their trip with us. They would continue to make battle, semi-literally, elsewhere.
Alan, Cammy and myself left Alset early afternoon for a night ski at Gausta, overly excited by the prospect of a karaoke night with our ace Norwegian singer at Apres. Unfortunately, he was not in attendance, possibly due to ours. Alan did however have a first go at karaoke nailing Nickleback. Chad would be proud, as were we.
As we were due an alpine start on Sunday to Oslo airport for rental returns and catching our flights, our last full day of activities was Saturday.
Vicky, Alan, Cammy, Baptiste, Miles and myself took to Gausta for a ski tour. I will admit, while my resort skiing came on well, I could not say the same for the off-piste. Icy sections and a mogul’d top made for challenging skiing for the less experienced, I will put this down to a lack of rest day. That’s it…
The team had a cracking day out, enjoying superb uninterrupted sunshine all the way back to the carpark. The area was very reminiscent of the Cairngorm plateau, even the top station restaurant was a rip off.
Alan and Cammy making their first turns off Gausta
The tour up Gausta
The rest of the Lomond team were either on a rest day or back to Lower Gorge for more ice. I do not have photos of this cragging day, but you can take my word for it.
Aurelie celebrated her birthday on the Saturday. Baptiste, the kind soul that he is, whipped up a somewhat rogue birthday cake – a pancake shaped like a tadpole with a large mantlepiece candle to top it off.
Big thanks to our drivers Scott, Aurelie, Miles, Flo, Tom and Baptiste. Despite the Winter tyres, the roads were treacherous at times and required plentiful focus. The driver team also very accommodating to supporting plans and doing food/Lomond hitchhike runs when needed.
A thankyou too for everyone for attending the trip with such psych, supporting plans, logistical monies and helping out with the day-to-day hoose maintenance that comes with staying with 12 people.